How to plant trees
Providers of shade and habitat for animals, and the “green lungs” of our planet: the right way to plant trees.
13.03.2024
Overview: Planting trees
In these instructions you will learn how to prepare the soil and the tree for planting, and how best to get it in the ground.
Trees produce oxygen and clean pollutants from the air. They offer important habitats and nutrient sources for many creatures, and protect the soil from drying out.
Nurseries sell three types of trees: potted, root-balled, and bare-root trees.
Soil quality, tree size and crown diameter are critical when selecting a planting location. The required distance from the property line must also be maintained.
After planting, it is important to give the tree plenty of water and mulch.
Choose a tree that suits the soil quality and size of your yard. Summer lilac and laburnum are suitable for chalky soil, while weeping birch and Norway maple work well in dry spots. Ornamental apple or small-leaved lime trees do well in a clay soil, while a large yard is a great place for a cherry, chestnut or beech. White ball acacia, columnar ornamental cherry and single-stem trees look more at home in a small yard.
You plant a tree by digging a planting hole in the right spot, inserting the tree in the centre of that hole, and backfilling the planting pit. Freshly planted trees also rely on supports to keep them upright. Then give the tree plenty of water and mulch.
The planting hole for a tree should be about twice as wide as its roots, and slightly deeper. This will give the tree enough space to form a strong root system.
Trees can be planted in spring or autumn, when temperatures are neither too cold nor too hot. However, the best time is in autumn, between the end of September and the start of October; deciduous trees have lost their foliage at this time of year and are no longer evaporating so much water, which benefits growth.
Why is it important to plant trees
Besides their decorative function, trees are an important component of our ecosystem:
Trees produce oxygen, clean the air of pollutants and recycle carbon dioxide, which is harmful to the environment in large quantities. Thus, trees are essential for all living beings on the planet and help to counteract rapid climate change.
Trees provide a habitat for animals and birds. Many species find food, nesting sites and shelter there. For example, leaves and fruits such as berries or nuts are a source of food for wildlife and humans. Bees, bumblebees and other insects feed on the pollen and nectar of flowering trees.
Trees are welcome sources of shade under which people and animals can escape the sun.
Planting trees: Preparation
Before you start planting, you should think about what kind of tree you would prefer and its future site. Pro tip: planting time is crucial for a trees growth and health.
Selecting a tree to plant
Generally, there are three types of trees:
Potted trees: These are trees grown in potting soil and large planting pots sometimes called containers. They are available year-round and also in full bloom. When buying, look for high quality and a healthy, finely branched root system on the tree. Note: You will find some trees are not grown in containers, but are placed in them for sale. This can cause less well-developed roots.
Root-ball trees: These are trees that are cultivated in fields and removed from the ground with their root-balls attached. The root system is left relatively undamaged and is wrapped in a burlap cloth made of jute or plastic that keeps the soil together. If the cloth is made from jute rather than plastic, it can be planted with the tree, and then decomposes in the soil. Larger woody plants, evergreens and conifers are often available as root-ball trees. They are sold between October and March.
Bare-root trees: These trees arrive fresh from the field and with bare roots, i.e. without soil on them. Bare-root trees are only available in spring or autumn, and the woody plants offered in the spring come from cold storage. This means they are only available bare-rooted. Conifers and evergreen trees are not available in this form, as it would mean they would dry out in no time.
You can generally plant any tree to combat climate change, as all trees produce oxygen and filter carbon dioxide from the air. It’s best to plant native trees that are well-suited to your area and do not consume an extremely high level of resources.
The costs of planting a tree vary on a case-by-case basis, and are made up of many factors. The price of the tree, cost of labour and subsequent tree care or any soil improvements are a couple of examples of these.
The best time to plant trees
Generally, you can plant a tree in spring or autumn. It rains more in these seasons than in summer, so the tree should get enough moisture and be able to grow better. Also, outside temperatures are neither too hot nor too cold. Early autumn, approximately between late September and early October, is best for planting trees. Deciduous woody plants have already lost their leaves and do not evaporate water. This gives them enough strength and time to root in before the approach of winter.
A suitable spot for planting a tree
The right soil conditions are important for a tree to feel comfortable and grow healthily in its new home. So before planting a tree in your yard, check the soil first and look for a plant that suits its characteristics. Because unlike in smaller perennial beds, it is difficult to improve the soil under a tree retrospectively, and a tree doesn’t transplant so easily either.
| Soil type | Tree species |
|---|---|
| Dry soil |
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| Chalky soil |
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| Clay soil |
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Later tree size and crown diameter are also factors you should consider when selecting a planting site. This information is available in the planting description or from a garden centre. This will help you anticipate how much shade the plant will cast and how much distance to maintain from your house, other plants, and the property line. To find the best position for a smaller tree species, use a branch or slat: take a branch that is about as long as the maximum height of the tree and position it vertically. This will help you visualize the growth and height of the plant.
Incidentally, regular pruning will not keep the tree small, just in shape. So in smaller yards plant smaller varieties of trees, such as the ball acacia, columnar flowering cherry and single-stem trees. Also, the soil must be cleared of weeds before planting.
Trees on the property line
Generally, the more a tree spreads and the taller it is, the greater the distance to the neighbouring plot must be. So, before you plant a tree, make sure you get detailed information from your local municipalities.
If you own your own property, you may plant a tree there, subject to property boundaries and local regulations. Tree planting is not permitted on roads or fields, or in forests and other public areas.
- A tree
- Bonemeal
- Mulch (not fresh bark chippings)
- A support stake
- Slats
- Coir rope or loose hemp rope
- Planting soil
- Plastic sheeting (to put the dug-out earth on if you are planting the tree in the lawn)
- Garden pruner (e.g. GTA 26)
- Rubber mallet
- Manual post-driving tool
- Spade or digging fork for heavy soil
- Knife, if planting a containerised tree
- Garden hose with spray attachment
- Wheelbarrow
- Gloves
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Planting containerised trees: Instructions
Gloves on, because now it’s time to plant!
First, water the tree. To do this, place the tree in a tub or bucket full of water until no more bubbles come up. If the container is too large to be submerged, water the root ball first and then water the tree very well after planting.
Measure the planting hole and clear it of weeds. The planting pit should be about twice as wide and slightly deeper than the root ball. This will give the tree enough room to form strong roots. The size and depth of the pit can be checked using a wooden slat. To do this, cut the slat to the required length beforehand using a garden pruner (e.g. GTA 26).
If you are planting the new tree in your lawn, a section of lawn should be cleared first. To do this, remove lawn to a radius of 30 to 50 centimetres around the trunk (depending on the tree size when it is planted). To protect the adjacent lawn area when digging, place a liner or tarp next to the planting hole.
Dig the planting hole and place the removed earth on the liner. Loosen the edges and bottom of the hole slightly using a digging fork or spade. Mix the excavated soil with planting soil or compost. This is especially important if the soil is sandy or contains too high a level of clay. Be careful not to use too much planting compost; this mixture only serves as a growing aid for the tree until it begins to take root in the garden soil.
For containerised trees, use a sharp knife to score the roots to a depth of about 0.5 cm at the root ball edge. This will encourage the tree to form new roots and spread into the soil. Otherwise, the roots of containerised trees will retain the corkscrew-like growth they have in the pot, and will not be stable even after years of growth.
Place the tree in the planting hole, centre it, and determine the correct planting depth using a batten. To do this, lie the batten over the planting hole so that it represents the future ground surface. The root ball should be no more than 1 centimetre below it, and for planting fruit trees the grafting point – a characteristic thicker point at the base of the tree trunk, created at the nursery – about 10 centimetres above it. Add or remove soil as needed.
Now place the tree in the centre of the hole next to the stake and align it so it is upright. When planting fruit trees, be aware of the grafting point – a characteristic thicker area at the base of the tree trunk, which is created in the nursery and should remain above the level of the soil.
Containers made from natural materials can remain in the planting hole, where they will break down over time. Materials and containers made from plastic must be removed.
Then pour the remaining planting soil into the planting hole. Shake the tree occasionally so that the mixture is well distributed between its roots. If the soil is too dry, fill the planting hole three-quarters full with soil and water the tree in generously. Now tread down the soil lightly.
Caution: Soil that is trodden down too firmly will not allow air to pass through, and will not allow the tree roots to breathe.
You should secure the planted tree to the stake for stability. To do this, wrap a coir rope around the tree trunk and the stake multiple times, in a figure-of-8 pattern (about 5 to 10 centimetres below the end of the stake). Tie the rope on the tree side – not too tightly – and slightly higher than on the stake. Over time, the tree will sink down into the ground and the rope will automatically adjust so it is horizontal. The rope will stay on the tree for about 2 to 3 years, and will decay on its own over time.
Now form a watering basin around the filled-in planting hole and fill the basin with plenty of water. Once the liquid has been absorbed by the soil, cover the area around the tree with a layer of bonemeal and then bark mulch. This will protect the soil around the tree from evaporation, and keep it moist longer. Mulch the area on top of this again in the spring.
Especially during the first 5 to 6 years after planting, the ground around the tree – referred to as the tree pit – should be open or mulched. The tree pit should be slightly larger than the tree crown, i.e. it should have a radius of about 50 to 60 centimetres. After that, grass can grow up to the trunk.
Things to keep in mind when planting root-ball and bare-root trees
To plant a root-ball tree, untie the cloth, open it up wide, and remove it if possible. Cloths made of natural materials can remain in the hole, where they will dissolve over time. In any case, no cords or wires should remain on the tree trunk. Materials made of plastic must also be removed. After planting, the base of the trunk should still protrude slightly, or about an inch, from the soil.
Bare-root trees should be left in a bucket or tub of water for a few hours before planting, to allow the roots to hydrate. Trim off crooked or dead roots with secateurs before planting. Remember that the plant must fit in the hole without its roots being compressed, and the roots must not be pushed directly into the solid garden soil.
Tying in a tree: which support is suitable for which tree?
The type of support depends on the growth shape and size of the tree.
Single vertical stake in the main wind direction
What for? For bare-root, smaller single-stem trees and container-grown trees with small root balls (such as fruit trees).
How? First drive the stake into the ground in the main wind direction, and then plant the tree. When doing this, the stake can be close to the trunk.
Single slanting stake
What for? For trees with a low crown base (maidens or two-year saplings), multi-shoot trees and conifers.
How? Place the stake against the main wind direction and at a sufficient distance from the root ball. Drive the stake in slightly at a 45° angle to the ground, bend the tree away for protection, and set the stake even more securely. If necessary, shorten the stake so that it protrudes no more than a hand’s width, and tie it in place.
Tripod (three stakes connected with cross-struts)
What for? Large trees with tall trunks and root balls, where the stakes cannot get close to the trunk without damaging the root ball.
How? First plant the tree, then insert the stakes in a triangle pattern, and at a sufficient distance from the trunk. Connect the stakes using cross-struts, and tie them to the tree.
